| Fashion: A Colorbook for the Century |
| Written by Sharon Mosley |
| Wednesday, 16 November 2011 13:40 |
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"We see color with everything we are. What starts as a signal passing along the optic nerve quickly develops into an emotional, social and spiritual phenomenon that carries many layers of vivid meaning," note the authors of the new book, "Pantone: The 20th Century in Color." Written by Pantone color experts Leatrice Eiseman and Keith Recker, this rich visual tome takes readers on a tour of colorful U.S. history in the last century from the pale gold and mauve of the 1900 Universal Exposition in Paris to the rust and midnight navy of the countdown to the Millennium. As a leader in developing color systems for the world of not only fashion but also art and architecture, Pantone is one of the best sources for tracking the evolution of color over the past 100 years. "The last century was a remarkably significant time for color," admit Eiseman and Recker. "Revolutionary changes occurred in every visual discipline, with rules being broken and new ones set in their place at every turn. New materials became available as new technologies transformed (or indeed invented) everything from paints to plastics to powder coatings and changed the nature of new manufacturing processes." Eighty color palettes are represented in this book and give readers an inside look at the changing trends that reflect the shifting social temperatures of each decade. Color is always a fascinating topic, especially to the fashion industry, that lives for predicting the latest hues for each coming season. Here are a few other colorful fashion highlights from Pantone's latest visual history:
—1910 to 1920 — The era of famous painter Maxfield Parrish inspired everything from home decor to fashion with his celestial hue that became known as "Parrish Blue." On the other end of the spectrum, World War I, which began in 1914, was a time in which Americans embraced more "sensible and functional" colors like "Medal Bronze," "Twill," "Trekking Green" and "Dress Blues." The red color of "Grenadine," represented the corn poppy that was used as a symbol of remembrance for those lost in the war. —1920 to 1930 — A decade that roared into the American consciousness with the rebellious Jazz Age when women bobbed their hair, dabbed on bright lipstick and rouge, and kicked up their heels in sleek flapper dresses that dripped with shimmering silver, gold and jet black beads. The commercial artist, Joseph Christian Leyendecker, who created more than 300 hundred covers for the Saturday Evening Post, made Arrow shirts famous with his "Arrow Collar Man." —1930 to 1940 —With the rise of the Hollywood movie star, subtle, smoky colors characterized the time. "Smoked Pearl and Pearled Ivory acknowledge the glow of pearls and satin finishes," say the authors of the Pantone history. —1940 to 1950 — With the preoccupation of war once again, the music industry provided an escape and the rise of the "bobby soxer," but these years also jumpstarted the career of fashion designer Christian Dior whose exaggerated peplums and full skirts became the "New Look." This post-war elegance spawned colors like "Bijou Blue," "Lavender Gray," "Parfait Pink" and "Moonlight." —1950 to 1960 —With economic recovery in sight, color trends in fashion shifted dramatically. Cosmetic giants like Revlon and Max Factor enticed women with movie-star glamour touting pale skin, red lips and painted nails. Red was the hot color. Photographer Richard Avedon shot model Dorian Leigh for Revlon's "Fire and Ice" campaign. —1960 to 1970 —Perhaps one of the century's most colorful decades, the '60s may be best remembered for its vibrant "psychedelic" era of flower power fashion, pulsating rock bands and Andy Warhol. The color palette? A riot of course of bold and bright! — 1970 to 1980 —Things had calmed down a little bit in this decade, and many of the "hippies" got back down to earth settling into kitchens with avocado and harvest gold appliances; ditto for their clothes. "Natural" was all the rage, a la the Native American look with fringe and feathers...but then there was John Travolta and the disco ducks...hmmm. An interesting and yet colorful contrast. And yes, I do recall fondly wearing my fringed suede vest to a Three Dog Night concert! — 1980 to 1990 — Big hair, big money and big shoulder pads...an era when more was more and the pastel colors made famous by designers like Gianni Versace on the popular TV show "Miami Vice" were a big hit, too. And don't forget the rise of the "preppy," Princess Diana's Sloane Ranger look and Ralph Lauren's aristocratic spin on fashion. This privileged color palette included "Deep Forest," "Evergreen," "Crimson" and "Rich Gold." —1990 to 2000 — Grunge — the thrift shop look — thrives with mixed results. Who wants to pay hundreds of dollars for a frayed flannel shirt? No, many consumers looked to movie stars to get their tips on dressing and celebrity endorsements became fashion's advertising panacea. Think lots of logos and lots of bling — a new word for the many in the '90s addicted to conspicuous consumption. Now, thankfully, the color wheel has turned once again and it's "cool" for high fashion designers to make affordable clothes for us all. We will have to wait to see what fashion trends take shape in this century, but hopefully we can look forward to a world where we can always live colorfully. Image: In a runway show in New York last week, Donatella Versace launched her colorful collection that will debut at 300 H&M stores and online on Nov. 17. Sharon Mosley is a former fashion editor of the Arkansas Gazette in Little Rock and executive director of the Fashion Editors and Reporters Association. |
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